Cotoneasters have small
round leafs and depending on the species they are evergreen, semi-perennial
or deciduous. The flowers are white or lightly red with red or dark
fruits. Cotoneasters are normally used to cover big garden surfaces,
cotoneaster horizontalis is adequate for this kind of plantings. Because
of the small leafs and a trunk which is easily to form, these plants
are very adequate for beginners. Growth is very fast so you can see
first results very soon.
Pruning and cleaning:
Eliminate dry leafs, flowers and fruits. If the plant has a big amount
of fruits, remove part of them to not weaken the tree. In the month
of june the new branches should be reduced to only two knots. In march
and september the branches should be pruned to give the tree a compact
shape. In march be sure to give the tree it's final aspect pruning the
main branches with care and oblique cuts.
Temperature and exposure:
They support very high temperatures and also resist (some authors say
the contrary) cold periods; I have had them outside all winter resisting
temperatures below -6° Celsius. Anyway, they should be protected
of very cold winds.
Repotting / Soil:
Repot every year or every two years (the growth is very fast) cutting
at least 1/3 of the roots. The cotoneasters are not very sensible regarding
the soil, I recommend the standard mixture of 1/3 of compost, 1/3 of
humus and 1/3 of sand. Assure a good drainage especially on high pots
as shown it the photographs. I like the dark pots (at least for the
Kengai style) to contrast with the light flowers and dark green leafs.
the branches and trunk before the new sprouts grow to avoid hurting
them. Use always raffia to protect the soft wood as it gets easily marked
need direct sunlight, but can also stay in mid-shadow. Growth will be
visibly reduced if they receive not enough light.
frequently as the growth is active and very water consuming. Be sure
to not wheaten the soil, but keep it humid the majority of time. You
may let them dry out between every two or three waterings. Vaporize
them a lot as they grow better and faster in humid climates. This process
also avoids a lot of parasites, specially those which need dryness to
I use solid organic fertilizer in spring and autumn, not applying it
in summer, to assure a good growth.
only disease I have nearly every year are aphids which I eliminate manually
and with a bath in water covering the whole tree for some hours. If
the attack persists, apply a very light dose of Folithion once.